I have IFB washine machine. it gives E1 error during washing , rinse, and i have to open and closed the machine door to make it wash. so plez help me on this problem .

SOURCE: Won't rinse and door won't ooen.

heating fault

SOURCE: error e1. washing machine will not drain

Two problems. Step one check the drain pump motor, to see if it draining the water out. Next step if the drain pump working you have a clock in the hose between the drain from the tub to the pump. Messy job witht he machine being full of water. I suggest take a small bucket and empty try to empty it out as much as you can.

SOURCE: My washing machine (Kenmore 70 Series) does not spin

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.#######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.


The Kenmore / Whirlpool top load uses a reversing motor to initiate the pump for draining and the transmission to spin.

If you cannot hear the motor trying to turn the pump, (but the washer will agitate) the problem points to the Timer, or the Lid Switch.

Try to bypass the Lid Switch by removing the Console and jumping the two outermost pins on the switch.

Following is a description of how to release the console for access to the pins.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

This is a Whirlpool PDF on how these washers operate. It has a diagram on jumping the switch as well as a detailed section on how the transmission works.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

It also has a troubleshooting guide.

To bypass the switch, you only have to disconnect the power to the washer, tilt the console back, unplug the switch and using an short piece of insulated wire, jump the two outermost contacts on the connector coming from the console and plug the washer back in.

Following is a description of how to gain access to the console and how to remove the cabinet if necessary.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=131&osCsid=913ba652cd504fb162f87d892bcb427b

With the jumper in place, try to re-start the washer.

If it works, the Lid Switch is a relatively inexpensive part.

If the problem isn't in the switch, and the Timer continues to move, the problem is likely in the transmission.

We had the same problem:

If you lift the lid, put it down again and the washer begins to spin, the problem is likely in the transmission "Neutral Drain Assembly".

Those cams/gears etc. in that assembly keep the washer from spinning until all of the water is pumped out and then go into spin mode.

Apparently, by opening and closing the lid, torque from the motor starting throws the cams into the right gears so that the washer will spin.

Ours had the same problem, no spin unless the lid was raised and lowered or we shut off and re-started the cycle.

After looking at the transmission parts list (available on a number of sites) and on the Whirlpool site (Whirlpool makes Kenmore) we noticed that the one of the cams in the neutral assembly which is supposed to have a small spring, didn't on ours when we tore the transmission apart again

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

Found the part number for a kit (Whirlpool part number 388253 Neutral Assembly) for $15.00 and replaced the cams and gears.

In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators. The top agitator uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt (a 1/2" socket extension works well).

You don't have to remove the drum.


http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

Lay the machine down (after disconnecting power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two clips on the motor), lift and set the motor aside.

Remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission.

Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main

agitator shaft), remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 14 - 15Oz of oil, remove the clip holding the main spin gear on and check the plastic cams.

If the cam that should have a spring doesn't, or the others look damaged, or the main spin gear is damaged the washer won't go into spin mode.

If that's the problem, install a Neutral drain kit, put everything back together carefully and the problem may be solved.

As an aside, fixing ours cost less than $30 including 80-90 weight gear oil vs. $170 for a new transmission.

SOURCE: Kenmore elite HE3 washing machine

Hello,

Welcome to FixYa.

Based on your description..."fills with water while the door is open (or closed) and the machine is not on" You likely have a faulty inlet water valve.

Here`s an easy way to check...

1) First drain the standing water which presently exists, if any.

2) Unplug the washer from the wall/power outlet and allow a period of time to pass, 12 hrs or so. If the unit has standing water in it after wards you need a valve.

If it doesn't have water in it after-wards then the valve is being energized when it is plugged in even when it should not...that indicates a faulty control unfortunately, but not very likely.

The valve # is 8182862 and varies in pricing around $40 - $75.

It should be available at most brick and mortar appliance part locations or if you prefer on-line shopping try "searspartsdirect.com" "repairclinic.com" or "appliancepartspros.com" to name a few.

To swap out the valve simply follow these steps...

**Unplug the unit from the wall before attempting any repairs suggested here...safety first**

1) turn off the water and unfasten the hot & cold fill hoses going to the washer.

2) remove the three screws along the back of the top panel and then slide the top panel back slightly and pull up. The panel should lift away.

3) in the left rear corner ( when observing from the front of the washer )you should now see the valve.



4) remove the wires, carefully the harness has little release tabs which must be bent back slightly to pull the wire & harness off.

5) remove the hose to the dispenser assembly, a pair of pliers or vise-grips works well here.

6) remove the screw on the outside back wall of the washer and pull the valve out, voila !

Reverse order to put the new one in and good job. You potentially saved yourself $200 or more for parts and labour.

Hope this answers your question but more importantly solves your problem.

Thanks for choosing FixYa for your repair solutions today. Let me know if you need further assistance.

Please take a moment and rate the solution provided for you as well as a testimony if you feel it warranted.

Good luck.

Regards,

Macmarkus :)

Testimonial: "Thank you kindly, Macmarkus. Pictures and everything!!! We'll follow your suggested procedure."

SOURCE: loud squealing noise during wash and rinse cycle

The dishwasher make "loud high-pitched squealing sound" during the rinse cycle that is periodic through out the cycle